Tuesday, November 6, 2007

The worst offenders

Toxic Ingredients
How safe are the ingredients used in your current brand of skin care products? How certain are you that they do not contain chemicals that could be harmful to you and/or your children?
If you are not sure, I have listed some of the worst offenders below. This information has been sourced from Material Safety Data Sheets (or MSDS).

Alcohol, Isopropyl (SD-40)
A very drying and irritating solvent and dehydrator that strips your skin's natural acid mantle, making us more vulnerable to bacteria, moulds and viruses. It is made from propylene, a petroleum derivative. It may promote brown spots and premature aging of skin.

Anionic Surfactants
They may be contaminated with nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. Surfactants can pose serious health threats. They are used in car washes, as garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers - and in 90% of personal-care products that foam.
Also.. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS), Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES), Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Potassium Coco Hydrolysed Collagen, TEA (Triethanolamine) Lauryl Sulfate, TEA (Triethanolamine) Laureth Sulfate, Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine, Disodium Oleamide Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Disodium Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate etc

Fragrance
Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separate ingredients, many toxic or carcinogenic. Symptoms reported to the USA FDA include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and skin irritation. Clinical observation proves fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, and irritability.

Paraben preservatives (methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl)
Used as inhibitors of microbial growth and to extend shelf life of products. Widely used even though they are known to be toxic. Have caused many allergic reactions and skin rashes. Highly toxic. Harmful if swallowed or inhaled. Causes irritation to skin, eyes and respiratory tract. May cause allergic skin reaction. Symptoms include redness, itching, and pain.

Silicone derived emollients
Silicone emollients are occlusive - that is they coat the skin, trapping anything beneath it, and do not allow the skin to breathe (much like plastic wrap would do.)
Recent studies have indicated that prolonged exposure of the skin to sweat, by occlusion, causes skin irritation. Some synthetic emollients are known tumour promoters and accumulate in the liver and lymph nodes. They are also non-biodegradable, causing negative environmental impact.
Also… Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Cyclomethicon

Monday, November 5, 2007

is it organic skincare or not?

Organic beauty products…
Are we worth it?

Like many mum’s today, I made a decision to use natural and/or organic body care products on my babies, so it came as a huge surprise to me that products marketing themselves as “organic” and “natural” were often using a completely different definition of “organic” and “natural” than I was.

Have you ever looked at the ingredients on your supposedly organic or natural products and seen unpronounceable chemical compounds listed and wondered how they could possibly be organic or natural? Well the truth is that they are almost certainly neither.

Take baby oil for example. I always thought of baby oil as about the purest and most natural product available. The advertising tells us what a fantastic moisturiser it is and it’s even available with lavender or aloe vera now too. What could be more perfect for a newborns skin? Well, it turns out that baby oil is almost 100% mineral oil. Still sounding natural? Yes, and by some beauty industry definitions it is natural. But then I found out that mineral oil is also called Petrolatum. That sounds like something I put in the car… do I really want to be putting that on my lovely, pure, innocent baby? Or me for that matter? So I did some research and I find that Mineral oil (also known as Liquidum paraffinum, Paraffin oil, Paraffin wax, Petrolatum) is a petroleum by-product that coats the skin like plastic, clogging the pores. It interferes with the skins ability to eliminate toxins, promoting acne and other disorders. It slows down skin function and cell development, resulting in premature aging. It also turns out that any mineral oil derivative can be contaminated with cancer-causing PAH's (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons – though I’m still not exactly sure what they are!) So it may make our skin feel lovely but it’s hard to see how it can be good for our babies.

Manufacturers use petrolatum because it is unbelievably cheap. Mineral oil contains carbon (some would define this as ‘organic’) and is derived from a natural substance (therefore it could be labeled ‘natural’), but I’m sure most of you would agree that this ingredient is neither organic nor natural in the sense that we expect it to be.

Thankfully the major manufacturers of baby oil don’t call their product organic or natural though they do tempt us with such statements as ‘enriched with lavender and chamomile’. However, check the ingredients list and its not pure essential oil of lavender and chamomile listed (which have been shown to have calming and relaxing properties) but ‘fragrance’. Ask any Aromatherapist and they’ll tell you that it’s the essential oil that has the calming & relaxing properties not a synthetically produced smell which you can be sure that ‘fragrance’ is.

What is Your Skin Eating?
It is a medically recognised fact that our body absorbs significant amounts of what we put on our skin. I know this from being a Reflexologist. If you have any doubts about it, rub the cut side of a clove of garlic on your feet immediately after a bath or shower and within about 20 minutes you’ll be able to smell the garlic on your breath, honest! And now that I know that one third of all personal care products contain one or more ingredients classified as possible human carcinogens, it suddenly seems more important to me to find out exactly what I’m putting on my family’s skin.

Why do we choose organic?
Lots of us are choosing Organic food for our families, especially our young children. But why? What is it about organic that appeals to us? Well, for me the main reasons are:

1. Good for people
Organic based ingredients have been shown in a number of studies to contain more vitamins, nutrients and cancer-fighting antioxidants than non-organic ingredients.
2. Good for the environment
Organic systems aim to reduce dependence on non-renewable resources. Organic production aims at all times towards sustainability whilst having best management of the environment and wildlife as a priority.
3. No GMO's (Genetically Modified Organisms)
Certified Organic products are produced without GMO's, which are prohibited in the standards for organic food and farming.
4. No synthetic chemicals
Organic systems prohibit the use of artificial chemicals, pesticides and fertilisers.
5. Good for the soil
Organic systems rely on a modern and scientific understanding of ecology and soil science, while also depending on traditional methods of crop rotations to ensure fertility and weed and pest control.

And it seems from my research that these are also the main reasons most of you are choosing to buy organic too. However, when we buy organic food we do so safe in the knowledge that if it says ‘organic’ on the packaging, it is organic. There are rules and regulations in place with food to ensure that organic really is organic so it surprised me to find out that there are no such rules in place with beauty products.

So if we’re choosing organic food for our kids, and we know that beauty products are full of potential carcinogens, why do we accept anything less than organic beauty products for our family’s skin? And how do we go about making sure that we really are getting organic beauty products?

What is organic?
When I think about the term ‘organic’ on beauty products I expect it to mean that the product is made ENTIRELY from organically grown things like plants, nuts and seeds. When I see the term ‘natural’ on beauty products, I expect that product to be made from ALL natural ingredients that have been grown (probably not organically) or things like naturally occurring minerals (like zinc oxide – the primary ingredient in Sudocrem). Is that such an outrageous thing to expect? After all we expect it on food products. Personally, I don’t expect those products to be laced with synthetic chemicals and by-products of petroleum in the same way that I don’t expect organic food to be covered in synthetic chemicals, pesticides and fertilisers.

So how do the companies get away with calling their products natural and/or organic? Well the one of the dictionary definitions of organic is – containing carbon. And when you cast your memory back to school days and chemistry you may remember that anything that has lived or is living contains carbon, including crude oil, diamonds and living plants. Using this definition, manufacturers can honestly say that their products are organic because they contain petroleum by-products.

The dictionary definition of natural is ‘existing in or caused by nature; not artificial’ but from my research companies are using the definition ‘any ingredient derived from a natural substance’. The labels often state that the synthetic chemicals used are made from corn or coconut for example (usually in brackets after the chemical name) which always made me feel safe. I believed that this meant that the chemical was natural but now I know that it’s about as similar as potatoes and vodka. We’d all agree that potatoes are good for us and vodka is not, yet vodka can be made from potatoes using a synthetic process and synthetic chemicals. Would you give vodka (from potatoes) to your kids? No, neither would I!

It is increasingly common for companies to “organic-wash” products. Since water is the primary ingredient in many beauty products, some manufacturers are claiming to use organic hydrosols, or floral water, to green-wash their products and make organic label claims whilst using the same synthetic toxic ingredients that would NEVER be allowed in organic food products. This simply means that the water content of the product has the equivalent of a teabag of organic herbs steeped in it before continuing with the normal manufacturing process. It’s also worth noting that water cannot be certified organic.

But by far the most common trick manufacturers do is to add one or two organic essential oils to their otherwise synthetic recipe. They then make us feel safe by telling us that the product is ‘made with’ or ‘contains’ ‘organic chamomile and lavender’. But the organic-ness of these oils is untraceable and often the essential oils are so far down the list of products that it’s unlikely there’s more than 1 or 2 percent of the entire product containing organic essential oil. Which leaves us with a product that is at least 98% water, potential carcinogens, untested synthetic chemicals and other ingredients that are cheap but bad for our skin (even if they make it feel good!).

A good rule of thumb is that the first 3 (very occasionally 4) ingredients on the list account for between 70 & 80% of the entire product.

Similar issues exist with the term ‘natural’. The term natural is often used in the product name alongside terms that we recognize to be natural like aloe vera/calendula/etc. This usually makes us feel safe. We think ‘oh goody, a natural product made with natural stuff so it’ll be good for us….’ But again, look down the list of ingredients and you’ll find that the natural ingredient is 4th or 5th on the list. Hardly a natural product when only about 5% is from natural sources.

So if a company can label or describe a product as organic, even if it only contains tiny amounts of organic ingredients, while it still contains other ingredients that are linked to health concerns and prohibited under organic standards, or label a product as natural when only a tiny percentage is natural – how can we be sure of what we’re getting?

The only way we can be assured that we are purchasing Real Organic bodycare products produced without the use of synthetic chemicals and GMO's is to purchase products which have been organically certified with a leading independent certifying body such as IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements), ACO (Australian Certified Organic), or BFA (Biological Farmers of Australia).

The Soil Association is the main regulator in the UK but their standards in beauty products allow synthetic chemicals that would never be allowed in their certified foods. Though they do state that any used are “from a restricted list of synthetic chemicals that have been assessed against criteria to demonstrate they have no detrimental impact on human health and minimum environmental impact.”

With more and more small businesses producing beauty products and selling them locally, you may just have to take their word that the ingredients are organic. Registering with the Soil Association and other certifying bodies is expensive these days and not all small businesses can afford it in their early days. They do have to tell you the ingredients though, and you’ll recognize the worst offenders from the attached list.

So why do we use synthetic chemicals?
Most manufacturers will tell you that there simply aren’t the foaming agents, preservatives and emulsifiers available in the natural world so chemicals are vital to ensure that our products don’t go mouldy on the shelf, don’t separate into horrid looking gunky messes and foam beautifully in the ways we have come to expect.

But it seems to me that actually this statement is motivated by profits. Synthetic chemicals are cheap to make. Using organically grown (and often fairly traded) products are more expensive so either the cost of the product goes up or the profit goes down. Most of us have come to expect cheap products but at what price to our health?

The truth is that these foaming agents, emulsifiers and preservatives are available in the natural world – they’re just more expensive. But aren’t you worth it?

We already know about the detrimental effects of buying cheaply produced food, that’s why we’re turning to organic food in our droves. It seems to me that what we put on our skin is as important as what we put into our mouths…

And what’s wrong with synthetic chemicals anyway?
Well, the average adult uses 9 personal care products daily exposing them to 126 chemicals every day.

89% of over 10,500 chemicals used in personal care products have not been evaluated for safety.

I found out that most of the synthetic chemicals in use have not been tested for their interaction with each other and there is speculation in some circles that it is this cocktail effect that is leading to an increase in cancers, mental health issues and allergies.

When you read the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS), which is recognised as the international standard for providing safety information about chemical ingredients used by humans, you’ll find that many are carcinogenic, cause skin irritations, allergic rashes, eye irritation… the list goes on.

The beauty industry tells us that these chemicals are used in such tiny amounts in their products that we are unlikely to suffer such effects but personally I’m rather frightened by the cocktail effect and prefer to use products that are truly natural and organic made from plant and plant extracts and naturally occurring minerals.

I readily accept that even natural and organic ingredients can produce allergic reactions. My son suffers violent skin irritation to lavender – be it organic or not. But it’s much easier for me to avoid lavender, than it is for me to find the synthetic chemical causing the problem and then spot it ,and all it’s derivatives, in other products.

This whole label watching process becomes even more difficult when you learn that even some properly natural ingredients have truly chemical sounding names. Take panthenol, citric acid, tocopheryl acetate for example – vitamin B, vitamin C and vitamin E! It’s all too confusing!

So what do you do?
We make so many decisions about our kids every day, it’s exhausting. And this just seems like another mountain to climb. I guess the thing for me is that I’ve decided to accept that chemicals can be useful and in small amounts are unlikely to do us much harm, but I have also decided that there are so very many of them around that I will make a conscious effort to reduce my family’s intake of chemicals wherever I can. I’ve also decided that using products that actually feed, nourish and support our skin (which plant, nut & seed extracts do) rather than coat it with toxic oils and skin irritants seems a far better option to me. For some products like baby wipes for instance my decision is motivated purely by cost and availability.

But usually I let others do the hard work for me. It’s easy with food these days, and with beauty products I stick to buying products certified by the ACO (Australian Certified Organic), BFA (Biological Farmers of Australia) and IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements) because they don’t allow any synthetic chemicals in their products so then I don’t even have to think about it.

Yes I pay more but we’re worth it!


If you're interested in finding out more about a full range of body care products that is completely free from synthetic chemicals then visit www.lovingmiproducts.com